Anyone who has actually wrestled a big-tired truck into a tight parking space or threaded a traditional muscle vehicle through a winding roadway knows the limitations of manual steering. Converting to power assist changes the experience, however not all kits are equal and not every vehicle responds the exact same method. I have actually installed, tuned, and periodically returned more than a few setups over the years on whatever from square-body Chevys to early Broncos and A-body Mopars. The best conversions feel factory-stable at highway speed, require little effort on the wheel at low speeds, and do not introduce new headaches like pump whine, bump guide, or u-joint binding. The worst feel twitchy, leak early, or require constant fiddling.
This evaluation strolls through the significant categories of handbook to power steering conversion options, the leading players in each classification, and how to select a package that fits your lorry and utilize case. It likewise covers the little pieces that make or break the set up, including guiding columns, an aftermarket steering shaft that really clears headers, and the best steering universal joint to deal with odd column and box angles.
Where a conversion makes the greatest impact
Manual steering can be completely functional on a light cars and truck with slim front tires. Add weight, larger tire contact patches, modern-day caster settings for stability, or off-road tires and manual boxes become work. A well-chosen power steering conversion set lets you:
- Reduce steering effort at parking speed without losing roadway feel at 60 to 80 mph. Run more favorable caster for straight-line stability, particularly on trucks that wander with stock specs.
The sweet spot includes classic trucks that tow periodically, muscle cars and trucks with larger front rubber and contemporary alignment, and classic 4x4s that see blended street and trail responsibility. On the other end, concours repairs and lightweight cars may benefit more from a rebuilt manual box and fresh geometry if creativity or simplicity outranks convenience.
The primary paths to power assist
Kits fall under several camps. Your lorry and objectives will point toward one of these paths.
Retain the original steering box and add a hydraulic ram. Popular on some classic Ford and Mopar platforms, this maintains factory linkage and a manual box with a power-assist cylinder. It keeps period look, however it includes hoses and can be picky to tune for on-center feel. Parts are getting scarce in some cases and leaks prevail if parts are blended and matched.
Swap to a factory-style power steering box. This is the most common and often the most dependable. A steering box conversion package replaces the handbook box with an OEM-spec or quick-ratio box. Lines and a pump complete the system. Feel can be outstanding if package ratio matches the lorry weight and tire size. Lots of kits use reman boxes that differ in quality, so brand and warranty matter.
Bolt-on rack and pinion conversion. Popular for traditional muscle and some trucks where space enables, rack conversions can enhance on-center accuracy and often decrease bump guide when the set is well crafted. They also maximize header area in some applications. The downside is packaging intricacy and, on some chassis, a poor tie-rod length or pivot inequality that presents bump steer if geometry is not corrected.
Electric power assist on the column. This is growing fast in specific niche circles. A column-mounted electric motor includes assist without changes to the steering box or rack. It simplifies plumbing, eliminates a pump, and decreases parasitic drag. It needs mindful mounting, a strong column, and proper torque sensor calibration. Perfectionists might object, and high existing wiring plus heat management should be considered.
For this evaluation, I concentrate on hydraulic conversions that many lovers consider initially, with notes on when a rack or electrical column makes more sense.
What separates a great kit from a bad one
The best power guiding conversion package is not just a box, a pump, and a couple pipes. The information specify the outcome.
First, guiding geometry. A power box with the wrong pitman arm length or spline configuration can change guiding ratio at the road, making the vehicle twitchy or lazy. Second, real ratio and valving. A quick-ratio box in a heavy truck with 35-inch tires can feel nervous without proper caster and high-effort valving. Third, parts quality. Pumps with sloppy tolerances cavitate. Pipes that lose get zip-tied near headers and stop working. A great package consists of a pump bracket that lines up belts, a correct rag joint or a high-quality steering universal joint, and clear instructions about alignment targets and bleeding procedures.
Noise is the big inform. A system that shouts after warm-up, specifically during low-speed steering, typically struggles with aeration. Poor tank style, pipe routing that welcomes suction leaks, or a return line dumping above the fluid level will have you chasing your tail. An aftermarket guiding shaft that binds is the other red flag. If you are mixing columns, retractable shafts, and headers, prepare for a double U-joint with an intermediate support bearing to keep angles under 30 degrees total and under 15 degrees per joint. That little piece of preparing conserves hours of frustration.
Brand families and what they are known for
There are lots of labels on the market, lots of drawing from the very same small group of remanufacturers. The distinctions depend on screening standards, warranties, completeness, and tech support. Below is a field-based map of common choices by lorry type, not a detailed roll call.
Classic GM cars and trucks and trucks. Numerous kits utilize the Saginaw 700 or 800 series boxes. Borgeson and CPP have well-supported plans for A, F, and X bodies and square-body trucks. Try to find boxes with the proper input shaft size to match your column coupler and a choice of ratios. For square-body 4x4s, RedHead Steering's reman boxes have consistent on-center feel, though you will purchase the pump and brackets individually. If you desire a tighter ratio without losing stability, a 12.7:1 box with firmer valving works well on half-ton trucks with 31 to 33 inch tires.
Early Ford automobiles and Broncos. Borgeson's important power guiding conversion is a go-to for first-gen Bronco owners who are tired of the factory ram help system. It utilizes a modern important box, a pump, hose pipes, and the needed column adapter. On early Mustangs and Falcons, Unisteer makes rack conversions that keep bump steer in check if installed with correct shimming. The Borgeson box tends to give better road feel than numerous aftermarket racks on these cars and trucks, though the racks can maximize header space with particular engine swaps.
Mopar B and E bodies. Company Feel and Steer & & Equipment have earned faithful followings for remanufactured factory-style boxes with custom valving. Mopar owners tend to appreciate steering feel and wheel return, and these houses will build a box for your weight, tire, and meant use. Pumps and brackets are frequently different purchases or sourced from modern Serpentine conversions.
Vintage 4x4 conversions. For strong axle Jeeps and Land Cruisers, PSC and AGR provide durable pumps, remote tanks, and boxes or Saginaw conversions intended for off-road loads. These are overkill for a street-only cruiser but shine when tires get large and steering sees high loads on rocks. With 35s and lockers, a stock-style power box can overheat or cavitate. A PSC kit with a high-capacity reservoir, cooler, and correct pipe sizes keeps assist consistent.
Electric column assist. ePowerSteering and EPAS Performance deal column systems for classics where hydraulic packaging is a mess or creativity matters underhood. They integrate torque sensors and speed-sensitive help in some applications. On heavy lorries or big tires, electrical help alone might feel labored at extremely low speeds, but for a light coupe or roadster it is elegantly simple and silent.
Real-world results by platform
I will keep this practical with what tends to deal with common vehicles.
GM A-body and F-body. A quick-ratio Saginaw box with matched pump is the simplest path. CPP's sets cover brackets for small block and big block, and their pumps act if the reservoir sits higher than the pump inlet and returns are routed easily. Borgeson's boxes often have tighter internal tolerances and much better on-center feel out of the box. Combine the conversion with contemporary alignment specs, plus a quality steering universal joint to replace worn rag joints if you are running headers. The stock column can be maintained, however an aftermarket steering shaft with a double D slip section helps with engine motion and firewall program angles.
Square-body Chevy and GMC trucks. RedHead's reman box plus a Type II pump package from a credible source provides a strong steering feel and reduces pump whine compared to spending plan Saginaw pumps. Lots of kits include rubber pipes that balloon somewhat and moisten ripple; intertwined stainless looks good but can transmit noise. If you tow or run larger tires, a little cooler plumbed into the return line helps fluid life.
Early Bronco. The Borgeson essential box set cleans up the front end compared to factory ram help. It brings better on-center feel and less leak points. Plan to adjust the column length and utilize a steering universal joint that matches the new box input spline. The supplied pump bracketry lines up on small blocks, but big block or 5.0 swaps may need custom brackets. Individuals forget positioning: an early Bronco likes more caster than stock after the conversion, typically 4 to 6 degrees with power assist.
First-gen Mustang and Falcon. Rack conversions prevail, but bump guide can sneak in if the rack's inner tie-rod pivots do not align with the lower control arm pivots. Unisteer's sets consist of spacers and guidelines to fix this. If you prefer a factory look and strong steering feel, the Borgeson essential box with a quality pump works well up to 245 front tires. An aftermarket steering shaft with a collapsible area is recommended for security and to reduce setup around headers.
Mopar B and E bodies. A rebuilt box from Firm Feel with phase 2 valving balances effort and feedback for roadway usage. Original pumps are fine when healthy, but a modern pump bracket and reservoir simplify belt positioning. Lots of Mopar owners undervalue the rag joint; switching to a steering universal joint enhances accuracy, particularly with stiffer suspension bushings.
Jeep CJ and YJ, old-school Land Cruisers. If you wheel, choose a sturdy box and pump with a big reservoir and a cooler. PSC's pump and reservoir mixes withstand cavitation in sluggish, high-load steering. A steering box conversion package that upgrades frame reinforcement near package is important to avoid splitting. A double U-joint aftermarket steering shaft with an assistance bearing clears headers and avoids binding across suspension travel.
The little parts that make the huge difference
A conversion that feels factory-smooth owes its good manners to information most buyers overlook till problems appear.
Aftermarket steering elements. Not all replacement pitman arms, idler arms, and center links are equivalent. Use joints from understood providers or OE if readily available. Careless new parts destroy an excellent box.
Steering universal joint quality. Low-cost u-joints can bind and develop play within a year. Heat from headers speeds up grease breakdown. Quality joints from Borgeson or Flaming River, appropriately aligned, last longer and feel tighter.
Aftermarket steering shaft design. Slip sections prevent column tension when the engine rocks on its mounts. For tight angles, a two-joint arrangement with an intermediate support bearing gives much better geometry than forcing a single joint beyond 30 degrees.
Pump and wheel positioning. Even a few millimeters off will squeal and consume belts. Bracket packages that reference several mounting points tend to stay aligned better than basic plate brackets.
Hose routing and tank option. A remote reservoir with a correct return diffuser reduces aeration and sound. Keep Steering universal joint returns below the fluid line and away from heat. Do not mount tubes where they chafe on the frame or crossmember. If area is tight near headers, use heat sleeves.
Bleeding treatment. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine off numerous times while topping the reservoir, then run at idle and repeat. Lots of installers hurry this and trap air, which shows up as a whine at parking speeds.
How to match set to driving style
Daily driver with moderate tires. A factory-style power steering conversion kit with an OEM-spec box, standard-effort valving, and a Saginaw or Type II pump is often ideal. Pick a ratio in the 14 to 16:1 range for stability.
Touring and perky country roads. A quicker ratio box around 12.7:1 teamed with firmer valving provides the turn-in you desire without dartiness if the car runs 3 to 5 degrees of caster. Couple with a high-quality steering universal joint and a solid intermediate shaft for precision.
Heavy truck or off-road. Consider high-capacity pumps with remote reservoirs, a cooler, and boxes designed for side load. Enhance the steering box install. Keep angles in the aftermarket guiding shaft conservative and supported.
Show develop with a tidy engine bay. Electric column assist keeps the bay tidy and prevents pipes. It needs mindful column installing and attention to electrical load. On heavy cars, hydraulic still feels more powerful at parking speeds.
Testing and feel, what to expect
On-center feel. An appropriately set box must have a minor deadband at center that transitions smoothly into assist. Excessive tightness at center might indicate incorrect preload on the box sector shaft. Absence of center feel suggests used linkage or overboosted valving.
Effort gradient. Ideally, effort rises modestly with speed and steering angle. Too light everywhere recommends an overboosted pump-valve combination. Too heavy at low speeds can be pump output or a flow control issue.
Noise and heat. A warm but not hot pump body is normal. If the tank bubbles after a tough parking area session, you have aeration. Include a cooler if heat stays high and validate return line submergence.
Straight-line stability. After a manual to power steering conversion, recheck toe and caster. Power assist enables more favorable caster, which assists straight tracking. Start with producer guidelines then push caster up a degree if the wheel still wanders.
A close look at steering box conversion kit components
A normal steering box conversion kit should include a reman or new box, pump with brackets, wheel, pipes, and the needed coupler or u-joint to mate with your column. Some include a brand-new pitman arm. Take notice of:
Input shaft size. GM boxes vary between 3/4 inch 30-spline and metric 3/4 inch 36-spline inputs. Ford and Mopar have their own standards. Pick the right coupler or guiding universal joint to match.
Output sector and pitman arm clocking. Using the wrong arm or clocking can shift your center position, minimizing turning radius on one side and causing unequal steering stops. Mark the center before disassembly and match it throughout install.
Pump design. Standard Saginaw pumps work, but Type II pumps are compact and pair well with serpentine systems. On high-demand setups, pick pumps with recognized circulation and pressure specifications and a tank with an anti-foaming design.
Hose end type. Inverted flare, O-ring, banjo, and AN conversions often mix. If you plan to plumb with AN lines, choose a package that supports it natively. Prevent stacking adapters that invite leaks.
Universal joint steering and angles
When you modify box place or switch to a rack, you typically change column-to-box angles. Universal joint steering setups endure a finite misalignment. Keep specific joint angles under roughly 15 degrees for smoothness. If you need to go beyond that, add a 2nd u-joint and a support bearing to break up the angle. Clock the yokes so the joints remain in phase. An out-of-phase shaft provides a lumpy feel, especially around center. Some columns use a collapsible area for security. Maintain that function when you adjust an aftermarket steering shaft, and ensure the slip travel exceeds engine and body mount movement.
Installation realities, two things to plan
Time and tools. Getting a kit bolted on can take a long afternoon if brackets fit and lines are simple, or a full weekend if you need to tweak column length, produce an easy bracket, or path hose pipes around headers. You will desire a pulley installer, a torque wrench, flare nut wrenches, and a method to support the guiding column inside the cabin while you work under the hood.
Alignment and test drive. Budget plan time for an alignment later. Do not evaluate the last feel up until you correct caster and toe and re-center the wheel. Bring the car back after a hundred miles to reconsider for seepage at fittings and validate belt stress as brand-new belts seat.
Cost varieties and value
A quality hydraulic conversion with a reman box, pump, brackets, hose pipes, and a coupler typically lands in the 900 to 1,600 dollar range for common domestic platforms. Rack conversions run 1,400 to 2,500 dollars depending upon completeness and needed subframe or crossmember modifications. Heavy-duty off-road systems with big pumps, reservoirs, and coolers can climb to 1,800 to 3,000 dollars. Electric column assist kits vary commonly from 1,200 to north of 2,000 dollars, plus any column work.
The finest worth is the kit that bolts on without constant rework which consists of trustworthy support. Watch for extensive directions, real torque requirements, a parts list with part numbers, and a clear warranty. If a set leaves you scrounging for a pitman arm or thinking about tube ends, your time cost erases any savings.
Common risks and how to avoid them
People often underestimate guiding shaft geometry. A header tube, a motor mount, or a lifted suspension can force unpleasant angles. Prepare for an intermediate shaft with a support bearing and the ideal steering universal joint arrangement.
Pump selection can likewise trip up a conversion. A pump that flows excessive at idle can make the wheel feel worried and transfer kickback. Flow control valves are readily available for some pumps, and particular sets tune this from the factory. If your box feels too light, do not presume the box is incorrect before you take a look at pump circulation and pressure.
Return line routing matters. A return line that dumps above the fluid level lathers the reservoir. Utilize a tank with internal complicated or a submerged return. Keep the line far from the exhaust and moving suspension parts.
Finally, know your positioning targets. After a manual to power steering conversion, your cars and truck or truck can deal with more caster. That single change frequently changes highway manners from unclear to confident.
A brief buyer's checklist
- Confirm box input and output spline specs, pitman arm compatibility, and center position markings. Choose a pump with known circulation and pressure specs that match your box and tire load.
The right guiding universal joint and aftermarket guiding shaft save installation time. Avoid tight single-joint angles by including an assistance bearing if needed.
Final word on feel and expectations
A good conversion should make the automobile feel like it constantly should have, lighter at low speeds, settled and precise at rate. On a square-body truck with a decent box and modern-day alignment, the guiding wheel needs to discover center on its own after a turn, with just a tip of help humming under heavy parking maneuvers. A timeless Mustang with a properly spec 'd essential box should sculpt a two-lane with calm hands at the wheel, not jerk or wander. A Bronco should stop leaking from its spaghetti of pipes and cylinders and guide like a modern truck.
What gets you there is not magic. Match the steering box ratio and valving to weight and tire size. Choose a pump that does not outgun the box. Construct an aftermarket guiding shaft that clears obstacles with sensible universal joint angles. Path tubes wisely with a tank that resists aeration. Complete with a positioning that takes advantage of power help. The outcome is a car or truck that welcomes miles, not just admiration from the curb.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283